In addition to serious car problems such as blown head gaskets, major oil leakage and other engine and drive train problems, engine & drive train issues often fall into these minor and common categories:  need for a tune-up, bad batteries, alternators or starters, A/C problems and worn belts and hoses.  Some of these issues are covered in detail on our Maintenance page (we all know that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.)  Preventative maintenance on a regular basis is THE best investment you can make in your vehicle!  Meineke Car Care of Humble can help with regular maintenance as well as any major vehicle repair problems because we offer TOTAL car care and repair in Humble, Kingwood, Atascocita, Huffman, Splendora and Porter.

Auto Air Conditioning & Cooling System Repair and Service
If your vehicle is too hot, bring it in to your local Meineke dealer and get cooled down!  Houston is famous for hot, hot summers but what most residents here know is that it's hot in the spring and fall as well.

Keep your air conditioner and cooling system in top shape by getting it checked regularly and avoid the high cost of repair and replacement!

If you do need repair, Meineke Car Care of Humble offers competitive rates and fast service.

Air Conditioner Repair
Air Conditioner Installation
Air Conditioner Parts
Cooling System Service
Cooling Systems Flush
Hoses
Thermostats
Radiator Caps

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Batteries
Your car's starting and charging systems and the battery help ensure dependable vehicle operation whenever you drive your car and in all sorts of driving conditions.  Make sure to have your Meineke professional check these systems regularly.

The battery stores electrical energy and the starter converts that energy into mechanical force to turn the engine for starting.  The alternator produces electric current to replace what the starter used from the battery during start-up and to support electrical loads when the engine is running.

Driving habits such as frequent engine on/off cycles will cause more wear on the starter than a simple trip back and forth to work.  Other factors include:  driving in extreme weather conditions (hot and cold); mileage; vehicle age; and extensive electrical draws like in-vehicle entertainment systems.

For safe operation of your vehicle, keep your electrical system fully charged.  Your Meineke mechanic can check your system to maintain peak operation of your vehicle.

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Alternators
The battery is the heart of your electrical system but your alternator is just as critical because you need something to keep the battery charged or it will lose its charge and die.  The alternator produces electricity and delivers this electricity to the battery and maintains a full charge at all times. If the voltage produced by the alternator goes above 13.5 - 14.5 volts, the battery will be ruined very quickly.

Today's charging systems have come a long way and are very reliable. A new alternator can last seven to ten years and a rebuilt alternator can last five or more years. It's a good idea to have the system checked when you have the car serviced at every 30,000 miles to make sure it is in good shape and it will greatly reduce your chances of getting stuck with a dead battery. 

As you use more electrical accessories, such as lights, air conditioner, heater etc., the electro-motive force decreases and more amperage flows into the battery to compensate for the added load. It is extremely important that when alternator efficiency is checked, both voltage and amperage outputs are checked. Each alternator has a rated amperage output depending on the electrical requirements of the vehicle.

In modern alternators, the voltage regulator and diode pack are inside the alternator and are not serviceable by most DIY's and mechanics. If any one of these parts goes bad, the whole alternator assembly needs to be replaced.

There are some signs you can look for that will indicate a problem with the charging system. If the headlights brighten or the blower motor picks up speed when you rev the engine, you may have a weak battery. This indicates the battery may not be holding enough current to run the car and is working off the alternator. If the charge light is on dimly at idle, this could indicate a weak alternator. If all the warning lights come on while driving, this could indicate a bad diode pack in the alternator. It may or may not still be charging, but you don't know unless you have it checked. At any rate, it will need to be replaced.

If you notice a strong sulfur smell, it could indicate a bad voltage regulator. The battery acid boiling inside the battery is causing the smell. This could lead to a battery explosion so be very careful when checking it! 

Starters
You turn the key. The battery gives a little juice to the starter, which engages the flywheel, which in turn gets your engine going. But this little gadget called the starter can cause more problems than many other of those moving parts. So how do you know when it is spent and needs replacing?

First of all, your car doesn't start. You get a jump and it still doesn't start.  The next step is one you have to listen to. When you turn the key, is there a clicking or a grinding noise?  Maybe there isn't but if there is, it may mean something is broken on the starter.  This could also indicate a flywheel problem, which is totally different. It could also mean that something has broken off the starter and is grinding into it. This could also indicate something wrong with the flywheel or inspection plate. 

If you car is having trouble starting and/or when you FIRST hear a clicking or a grinding noise, give us a call so we can get you in before you get stuck somewhere with a car that won't start!

Belts & Hoses
Belts and hoses need to be inspected periodically to make sure they are in good condition. Replacement also may be recommended depending on the age and condition of the part.

Except for timing belts, which should be replaced every 60,000 miles on most engines, V-belts, serpentine belts and hoses are seldom replaced until after they fail (and they all eventually do fail). But waiting for the inevitable to happen is asking for trouble. Who wants to blow a hose or have a belt break out in the middle of nowhere? Either one can allow an engine to overheat, which cause additional damage and trouble.

You cannot always determine a belt's true condition by just looking at it. Any belt that is visibly cracked and frayed should be replaced. The same goes for belts that have missing chunks of rubber, are glazed or have been contaminated by grease or oil. But many belts that look as good as new on the outside have become dangerously weak on the inside and may be on the verge of failure due to weakened inside cords.

Belt manufacturers say the risk of V-belt failure rises sharply after three years of service, and four years with serpentine belts. Replacing V-belts every three to four years, or 40,000 to 50,000 miles, and serpentine belts every five years, or 50,000 to 60,000 miles, can minimize the risk of sudden belt failure and a breakdown.

Replacement belts must have the same width and length as the original. This is especially important with serpentine belts that rely on an automatic belt tensioner to maintain belt tension. The range of travel on most tensioners is very limited, so if a replacement belt is a couple of inches longer or shorter than the original, it may not work at all.

Belt tension is critical with both V-belts and serpentine belts. It must be adjusted properly and maintained for good belt performance, quiet operation and long life. If a serpentine belt on an engine with an automatic tensioner has failed prematurely or appears to be slipping, the automatic tensioner should be inspected and replaced if it is sticking, frozen or has a broken spring. On applications that do not use an automatic tensioner, belt tension must be adjusted to specifications, then readjusted after a short break-in period.

Symptoms that would indicate a bad tensioner or idler pulley include bearings that clatter, a rumble or chirp sound when the engine is running, visible looseness in the pulley bearings, dragging or seized pulley bearings (the tensioner pulley should rotate freely), physical damage to the idler pulley wheel, arm or base housing, or belt squeal immediately after engine start up or when belt-driven accessories are under load.

Rubber hoses also need to be inspected because they deteriorate with age and exposure to heat. Tiny cracks develop in the rubber which eventually cause the hose to split, blister or leak. A hose also can fail from the inside out due to electrolytic corrosion within the cooling system. Some hose materials can actually become conductive under the right conditions, which causes the hose material to pit and weaken. Cracks and fissures tend to form near the ends of the hose that eventually eat through from the inside out. This type of deterioration can sometimes be identified by pinching the hose near each end. If ridges or voids can be felt in the hose, it means the hose is failing and should be replaced.

Hose manufacturers usually recommend replacing coolant hoses every four or five years to minimize the risk of hose failure. New clamps also are recommended to replace OEM ring-style clamps.

Finally, don't forget to check fuel hoses, emissions hoses and vacuum hoses. Replace any that are cracked, frayed, damaged or leaking. 

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